Home » Hints & Tips

Hints & Tips

Selection of tiles

Check all tiles before installation to make sure which side of the tile you would like to use on top. While checking the tiles for the colour ask the tiler to put the thickest tiles to one side, to start with.
Make sure your tiler spreads the colour for the natural stone evenly over the area.
Do not use a small spacer between the tiles. Only 8mm and bigger are recommended.

Natural Stone does have size and colour variation. After you have checked the tiles for colour, size and thickness variations you are ready to lay them down.

Floor preperation

New Cement:

Ensure that cement has dried for at least 3 weeks as most of the movement in cement takes place in the first weeks. Make sure the screed is level and use a leveling mix if needed or add a screed.

Old Cement:

Ensure the cement is clean and free of oil. Prime with a mixture of 1l Tile Bond and 2kg tile adhesive.

Carpets:

Remove all carpet and under-felt. If carpets have been glued in: ensure that all glue has been removed or chip the floor so that at least 90% of the substrate is exposed. Prime the floor with a mixture of 1L Tile Bond with 2kg tile adhesive.

Parquet Flooring:

Preferably remove all parquet and glue or bitumen, then chip the floor so that 90% of the substrate is exposed and primed as above. If the parquet is still well glued to the floor, sand well and tile with professional tile adhesive and tile key. Professional cement and tile key will stick to the parquet, but if the parquet lifts the tiles will lift as well.

Wooden floors:

Never tile on wooden floors if it can be prevented, as movement in the floor will cause the tiles to lift.

Slasto:

Remove any polish or sealer from the floor by using a stripper. Prime with a mixture of 1L tile key and 2kg tile cement.

Ceramic Tiles:

Never tile over ceramic tiles if it can be prevented. If not make sure the the ceramic tile is clean of all oil and dirt (wash with Easy Clean) then prime as above, leave to dry for at least 24 hours and then tile with professional tile adhesive.

PVC tiles or Navilon:

Tiles must be removed including all the glue or bitumen. Use a bitumen or glue removing agent if the glue is very hard to remove. . Chip the floor to expose 90% of the substrate. Prime the floor using a mixture of 1L Tile Bond with 2kg tile adhesive.

Painted floors & walls:

Chip the floor or wall to expose 90% of the substrate. Prime with 1L Tile Bond and 2kg tile adhesive. Tile with professional tile adhesive. Never tile over painted walls or floors as the paint cannot take the weight of the tiles and will come off the wall.

Wooden table tops or dry walling:

Seal the surface using sanding sealer. Prime the surface with tile key. Tile using super flex, spreading the flex over the total surface. Never glue tiles by just putting glue on the corners of the tiles.

Planning the job

Never start tiling in a corner, as walls are seldom square.
When tiling a passage, tile from the one side of the passage in the center outwards, to ensure an even finish.
When tiling steps, place the full tile on the outer edge and cut the piece against the back. Never place cut tiles on the edge of the steps.
When tiling a wall always start about 1/2 a tile from the floor tiling up. Using a spirit level and a tile gauging rod will ensure neat tiling. Never start on the floor as the floors are seldom level.
Never Butt joint tiles as moisture and temperature cause contractions and expansions.
Ensure that at least 95% of the back of the tiles is covered with tile cement, as hollow patches cause cracks and breakage.
Always use a 10x10 square notched trowel for floor tiles and a 6x6 square notched trowel for the tiles.
Clean the joints between tiles with a tile spacer to provide a good grouting joint.

After your Natural stone tiles are laid down clean them properly while the tile grout is still wet. If the grout starts setting on the tile it will be very difficult to clean because natural stone tiles are very absorbent and will absorb the grouting into the body of the tile. For this process we use Easy Clean and Grout Off (acid wash).

After installation there will always be grout residue no matter how well the installers clean. It is essential to remove the grout residue along with any other type of impurities before sealing. Impurities and residue will impair the finish and will cause blotchiness and streakiness, and may lead to sealer failure. Sealant cannot penetrate and bond with the tile if there are any imputities and residues in the floor or if the floor is acidic as it has not been neutralised. The preparation guide that follows applies only to tiles that are resitant to acids. Other techniques apply to acid sensitive tiles. If in doubt, please feel free to contact us.

1)Allow 10-14 days drying time after installation before sealing
2) Acid wash with Grout Off, after the grout and cement are dry
3) Rinse with clean water
4) Neutralise and degrease with Easy Clean
5) Rinse until there aren no more bubbles and residue of cleaners
6) Allow to dry: 8-12 hours when using water based sealers or 48 hours when using solvent based sealers
7) Seal using the correct applicator and waiting for the correct amount of time between coats. Acrylic surface sealers require 3 to 4 coats. Penetrating sealers require 1 or more, until the tile will not absorb any more sealer.

Sealing Techniques

Granite, marble, travertine and limestone are very sensitive to acids. When you clean these tiles please make sure not to use Grout Off, only Easy Clean.

Always use sheepskin applicators. Do not use rollers or brushes or sponges.

Surface sealers (Top Sealer)

Apply medium coats in opposite directions (north to south and then east to west) ensuring to get sealer into the grout lines. Apply as many coats as nessasary to seal and protect the tile (generally 3 - 4 coats).

Penetrating sealers (HP Sealer - Natural effect / Natural Stone ealer - Gloss effect )

Penetrating sealers are designed to penetrate and not to sit on the surface. Only apply as much sealer as the tile will accept. The safest, most practical way is to apply thin coats in opposite directions until the tile is filled with sealer and will not absorb any more sealer. At this stage the sealer sits on top of the tile.

Granite, marble and travertine tiles are very low in porosity, hence a high viscosity penetrating sealer must be used. In most cases Deep Seal or Invisible Sealer may be used, but please consult Stone Crazy if you are uncertain.

Sealer selection

Top Seal is suitable for interior and exterior applications. Top Seal is a tough and durable surface sealer that protects a tiles surface from wear and tear. Top Seal may be used on terracotta, slate, sandstone, natural stone, cement and vinyl tiles. Top Seal is used whenever protection from traffic is required. Top Seal is easy to apply and will dry quickly to a gloss finish. Do not use Top Seal in areas where surface water could cause slippery conditions i.e. around pools, jacuzzis, etc.

Apperance: Gloss
Colour Change: Very slight colour change
Coverage: Depends on porosity. Approx. 12 to 25 square metres per litre.
Maintenance: Maxi Shine (interior only) - Easy Seal (exterior only) - Quick Clean (daily cleaning)

Natural Stone Sealer is a tried and tested, weatherproof, solvent based sealer system for natural stone and cement tiles. It is very simple to use and is suitable for most types of natural porous tiles. Natural Stone Sealer's refined, non-yellowing, resin formula is designed for ease of application for cost effective protection. Natural Stone Sealer is both an impregnating and surface sealer so it enhances the tile colour and provides a beautiful, sheen finish. Natural Stone Sealer is a breathable sealer. That means it may be applied to areas that have a slight hydrostatic pressure problem. Natural Stone Sealer dries quickly and cures faster than most other un-accelerated sealers.

Uses: Most low to meduim and even some high porosity tiles. Do not use on extremely low porosity tiles (grantite, porcelain, vitro, etc.) Do not use if you dont want colour enhancement on the tiles. Natural Stone sealer may be used on terracotta, black slate, sandstone, quartzite limestone, cement, terrazzo, plaster fac brick and paving, in fact on any hard surface that needs protection from the elements and staining.
Appearance: Sheen
Colour change: Colour enhancement
Coverage: Depends on porosity. Approx. 7 to 10 square metres per litre
Maintenance: Quick Clean

HP Sealer is a durable, twin-pack urethane sealer with extra stain resistance. HP Sealer penetrates and bonds with the tile thereby strengthening and protecting the tile from stains, wear and tear. HP Sealer is suitable for medium to high porosity tiles, eg. imported terracotta and sandstone. HP Sealer enhances the natural colour of the tile and dries to a matt sheen finish (A gloss may be achieved by coating over with Maxi Shine - interior only). HP Sealer may be used interior and exterior. Tiles must be 100% dry before application. Do not allow water on the tiles for 48 hours before and after application.

Appearance: Matt sheen
Colour Change: Colour enhancement
Coverage: Depents on porosity. Approx. 10 - 20 square metres per litre

Invisible Sealer is an invisible, clear silicon sealer that will maintain the natural look of the tile. Invisilble Sealer may be used on low porosity tiles only (eg. low porosity terracotta, granite, marble, travertine and porcelain) and will repel water and most oils. Invisible Sealer is suitable for interior and exterior applications. Invisible Sealer penetrates into the tile and therefore maintains the anti-slip properties of the tile.

Uses: Invisible Sealer is used on hard porous surfaces that can withstand relatively heavy traffic. Invisible Sealer may be used on terracotta, marble, granite, porcelain and natural stone tiles that are hard enough to not need surface protection. If in doubt please contact Stone Crazy - 011 915 1600
Appearance: No change in appearance
Colour change: No colour change
Coverage: Depends on porosity 7 - 20 square metres per litre
Maintenance: Quick Clean only